Ghats of Kolkata… Revisited: Baboo Ghat

Baboo Ghat: Circa 1880

In 1823, Rani Rashmoni’s father breathed his last. In order to perform his post-cremation rites Rashmoni visited a ghat on the banks of Hooghly — she was pained to see the dilapidated state of the ghat and left soon after offering her prayers. On her return to the Janbazar Palace, Rashmoni requested her husband Raj Chunder to renovate the ghat.

            Moved by his wife’s empathy Raj Chunder first approached the concerned Garrison Officer of the area. Thanks to the mediation of the Officer, Raj Chunder met Lord William Cavendish Bentinck, the then governor-general of Bengal. Raj Chunder sought permission to build a ghat on the Hooghly and construct the approach road from Janbazar to the precincts of the ghat. Bentinck appreciated the merit of the initiative and summarily gave his stamp of approval to the projects.

            The Ghat was completed first and inaugurated in 1830. Even today one can see a plaque on the façade of this Ghat that is made up of thirty-six pillars and an Ionic style parapet. It reads:

The Right Honourable Lord William Cavendish Bentinck, G.C.B. & G.C.H. Governor General & c. & c. & c. with a view to encourage the direction of private munificence to works of public utility has been pleased to determine that this Ghaut constructed in the year 1830 at the expense of Baboo Raj Chunder Doss, shall hereafter be called Baboo Raj Chunder Doss’s Ghaut.

It needs to be noted that at the time of the Ghat’s construction, Strand Road was lower than its present elevation. The water level, therefore, was parallel to the Road on the other side of the Ghat right below the steps. Supply of water from the Hooghly was accommodated through eight Gullyghars that were constructed for this specific purpose by the Ghat.

One would take the steps to reach the waters of Hooghly — as such this meant that from a distance, Baboo Ghat had remarkable resemblance to a two-storied house. While the lower level was used for bathing purposes, the upper level acted as the venue for performing religious rites. It is also interesting to note that the upper level had verandah and tastefully guarded by balustrades on all sides. This meant that one could not directly access the Hooghly from this level. The steps that we see at present were added later.

   The lower level of Baboo Ghat was buried at a later date when Strand Road’s level was raised — first by soil filling and then with construction of the metalled road.

Baboo Ghat: At present